Becoming an Art Nouveau expert

I already wrote here about my Art Nouveau discoveries of Brussels during the great Art Nouveau and Art Deco Biennale, and after exploring various sites in Schaerbeek, I spent another weekend discovering Art Nouveau gems in Ixelles and Etterbeek.

On Saturday, I started with the ultimate example of Art Nouveau, Victor Horta's Hôtel Solvay in Avenue Louise. The building is nowadays a listed UNESCO world heritage site together with Horta's Hôtel Tassel (see below), Hôtel van Eetvelde and Horta Museum. 

The interior of the house is once again fantastic: in Horta's style, stained glass windows bring light to the house, walls are beautifully decorated and all details are carefully executed.

I continued to another UNESCO site not far away in Rue Paul-Emile Janson, where Horta designed in 1893 Hôtel Tassel. The interior of this building was completely destroyed in the 1970s, but is now renovated to look like the original. 

My last destination on Saturday was Maison Blerot in Rue de Belle-Vue, in a street where you have a row of buildings designed by the Art Nouveau architect Ernest Blerot (look for his signature on the facade). 

Compared to Horta, Blerot's style was a bit more romantic with more flowers and animals used in the decorative patterns. Blerot constructed over 70 houses in Brussels and I think I need to go and discover some of them in the neighborhood of Saint-Boniface soon.

On Sunday I continued my Art Nouveau weekend with yet another Horta building close to Sablon, Maison Frison. It's a house that I've walked past many times, but I have never paid any attention to its dirty facade (see below, it's the one with "for rent" sign). Indeed, the facade is not spectacular, but the interior has a beautiful winter garden of true Horta style.

One of the highlights of the Biennale was, without a doubt, Maison Cauchie in Etterbeek, close to Parc Cinquantanaire. This is where I finally understood the technique of "sgraffito", which is used to make the decorative paintings in many Art Nouveau facades. It consists of two layers of plaster of which the bottom one is dark. When the plaster is still wet, the artists carves the lines of the image on the wall, revealing the darker layer. Then, as in the fresco style, the wet paint is coloured. 

Paul Cauchie and his wife Caroline were masters of the sgraffito style and on the facade of their house you can admire their skills. The building has a well-earned place in the secret list of "The 5 most striking Art Nouveau houses in Brussels".

My last visit was in Parc Leopold (No. 322 in the list of "The 5 most remarkable places in the Eruopean Quarter"), the Bibliothèque Solvay, behind the European Parliament. 

The story of the Solvay library is super interesting. Ernest Solvay (father of Armand Solvay who commissioned Hôtel Solvay) was a rich industrialist who was very keen on supporting education, science and research.  He founded five private institutes, one of which was the institute of sociology, an academic field close to Solvay's heart. 

This building was constructed to only around 10 top students of sociology. They had a beautiful library in the middle of the building for their use and their individual offices were furnished with Chesterfield furnitures. Not bad for sociologists! With the help of the sociologists, Ernest Solvay himself conducted analyses on workers' well-being in his factories. Oh boy, I wish we had more rich industrialists like him in the world today.

Later in the 20th century, the institute became part of the University of Brussels, and finally in 1981 the library was no longer used. Squatters moved in and destroyed the interior of the place completely in the following years. It was only in the end of the 1980s when an architecture student got interested in the place and urged politicians to save and protect it. 

The shameful story got a happy ending as the student later was in charge of renovating the building. It is now used for various events and concerts, so it is possible to see the beautiful stained glass windows. 

Jungle trip with the tram 44

What a ride! 

You jump on an old tram at the underground station at Montgomery, west of Parc Cinquntanaire in Brussels, and soon you are following Avenue de Tervuren through Parc de Woluwe and Parc de Tervuren. 

It is great fun to take the tram through beautiful and superbly green Tervuren forest. At moments, the tram is riding through green alleys, or more like lush tunnels, and you soon forget the grey city behind you.

25 minutes tram trip takes you through green forests and parks.

Obviously, the trip is recommend by my 500 Brussels secrets guide. It features in the list of "The 5 best trips on tram and bus", No. 291: Tram 44. A tram ride might sound a bit weird tourist or Sunday activity, but this is a ride you should do at least once in Brussels.

On the way, you might have a quick glimpse of the luxurious private house called Stoclet House in Avenue de Tervuren. It is also No. 232 on the list of "The 5 best UNESCO world heritage sites". Its architecture represents the Vienna Secession and it is considered a masterpiece of its Austrian architect. Quite gorgeous and weird, but hard to see well from the street (and you definitely need to get off the tram if you care to have a closer look).

On Islamic art and head scarves in Iran

Of course one of the most interesting aspects of visiting Iran is to get to know better Shiism and Islamic culture. It is interestingly a modern yet religious country, where you discover the history of Shahs and the Islamic revolution, and people who are willing to share their thoughts about both. The question of religion in Iran is hard to disentangle from the questions of gender equality, women's rights, democracy, and politics in general. But before getting into this heated topic, let's look at the beauty of Islamic art and design in Iran.

The Imam Square in Isfahan is among the UNESCO World Heritage sites and said to be the second largest square in the world after the Tiananmen Square in Beijing. It is a lively square dominated by the Masjed-e-Shah mosque and Masjed-e Sheikh Lotfollah mosque (above in the picture). The latter was a mosque for the women in the harem of Shah Abbas I, the king that made Isfahan the beautiful and important city it still today is. Masjed-e Sheikh Lotfollah is wonderfully decorated with blue and yellow tiles, and the cupola was among the most beautiful ones that I saw during our visit in Iran (picture below).

The Masjed-e Shah at the Southern end of the square is equally impressive. 

A local young man in Masjed-e Shah wanted to have many photos with me, maybe he presents me as his foreign girlfriend to his friends... Perhaps, I should do the same, the Iranians are not that bad looking after all... :)

For me, the most beautiful mosque in Iran was Masjed-e Jameh in Isfahan. It is a showcase of Islamic art from 800 years during which it was constructed. It is also the biggest mosque in Iran. Taj al-Molk dome of the mosque was gorgeous and as I was wandering alone in its sublime majesty, I got this very humble feeling that you often get in these places that are at once spiritual and great examples of human engineering and craftsman work.

Taj al-Molk dome, Masjed-e Jameh, Isfahan.

The beautiful ceiling of the South Iwan of Masjed-e Jameh, Isfahan.

It was possible to visit all the mosques as a foreigner and as a woman (well, as foreigners we always paid more for the entry, usually something between 100 000 and 150 000 rials, equalling to around 3 euros). In the holiest places they offered me (and also local visitors) a chador that covered me from head to toes. I think that wearing this chador I was ridiculing the holy place more than I would have without it ("Is that a tent for 4 or 6 people?", my sister asked of the chador I was wearing in a photo), but I was glad that there were no other restrictions to visit the mosques.

Wearing a chador inside the Masjed-e Jameh mosque of Yazd.

And from chador to the issue of head scarf... The questions I got most from my friends and colleagues in Europe were about the head scarf. Did I need to use it? Yes, I did. When landing to Tehran, we were announced that the female passengers are reminded that the Islamic Republic of Iran obliges women to cover their hair. Women looked for their handbags and adjusted their scarves, me included. Some of the Iranian women wore it very loosely at the back of their head as an accessory, but others also told us that the moral police did warn them every now and then for showing too much of hair...

Wearing the head scarf didn't bother me - as it was only temporary. Awful to say, but two weeks of wearing a scarf just increased the "exoticism factor" of Iran (luckily it wasn't too hot). But obviously during the trip there were plenty of moments when the absurdity of  the legal obligation of covering women's hair and body shapes frustrated - even outraged - me. Honestly, the men cannot control themselves so they make women hide their body, isn't this just fucked up? Woman is not pure if she shows her hair or body shapes? What about the men with the dirty thoughts, why aren't they blamed for? This also reminded me of the great film Timbuktu that we saw just before traveling to Iran: a woman is told to wear gloves by the jihadists and the women replies that her parents already brought her up respectfully and they did so without wearing gloves.

This is of course a debate that is very heated in Europe and elsewhere, but seeing a place where it is compulsory to wear a head scarf, you understand better the profound inequality in the system. 

And what craziness is this? A baby wearing a head scarf because otherwise she's not pure? Come on!

An eye-opening escape to Iran - to be recommended!

When I told people that I was travelling to Iran, I got basically three types of replies:

1) "Why?" (negative)

2) "Why?" (curious)

3) "I'm jealous."

It was hard to reply to the comments, and especially to convince the people in the first group, as I knew so little about the country before going there. However, now back from our two week trip, I feel like responsible of spreading the message of this country and namely of its people who left me with a great impression of Persian hospitality, history and culture.

While the concert of Azam Ali (see video below) in Helsinki Festival last August was perhaps the concrete push for me to travel to Iran, it was also an exciting destination because most of us know basically nothing about Iran - except something negative related to nuclear power and strict Islamic state - and we have such huge prejudices against Iranians. Traveling to Iran was truly an eye-opening experience and also an interesting dive into Iranian/Persian history and Islamic culture.

Many people make common mistakes when thinking of Iran, so I'd like to stress three points:

First, traveling in Iran is safe. It is a surprisingly (for us who don't have much prior knowledge) developed country (no. 71 in the list of countries by GDP per capita before e.g. Thailand and Serbia) with a well-functioning infrastructure, highly educated people (everybody has studied engineering) that can all cite their national poet Hafez, and an important middle class that will make you feel ashamed if you are not prepared with a fashionable city garderobe. 

Don't mix Iran with its neighboring countries, it is nothing like Iraq or Afghanistan, while the bordering regions in Iran might better be avoided. If Islamic state is authoritarian, it has at least managed to keep the country calm and somewhat prospering even despite the sanctions. Of course, there is always a possibility of violent demonstrations that you want to steer clear of. Crimes against tourists are  however very rare and traffic is probably the most dangerous thing you'll be faced with.

Second, it is definitely worth visiting Iran. In addition to  beautiful Persian carpets, the country has plenty of historical sites, amazing Islamic architecture and design, good food and wonderful mountains. Two weeks is hardly enough to visit the country, we only had a glimpse of the central part of Iran. 

Our itinerary including the cities of Tehran, Shiraz, Yazd, and Isfahan is very typical for such a short trip and it serves as a great introduction to Iran, but I still have a craving to visit many other places (especially the city of Tabriz, and experiencing over-night stay in the desert and hiking in the mountains).

Walking in the streets of Tehran or Isfahan, you sometimes wonder if you're still in the Middle East: teahouses are full of hipsters (the Iranian guys are the true "lumbersexuals"), families gather in parks for a picnic, people take selfies with their iPhones, and public transport is clean and efficient. However, at the same time, you feel the strong presence of Eastern culture, Islam, and ancient history that will mesmerize you.

Third, please, make a distinction between the official regime of the country and its people. I've never felt more welcomed in any country I've visited. The Iranian people, young and old, are genuinely interested in discussing with foreigners, asking constantly our opinion of the country and its inhabitants. This offers a great opportunity to talk with various kinds of Iranians. Sometimes language barriers hindered any real conversation, but the message was clear: we were most welcome in Iran. 

The Iranians were also eager to show us a different image of Iran as they are well aware of the one-dimensional idea we often have of this country. People initiated discussions on politics and religion, sometimes shaking their heads to the mullahs and demonstrating their wish to come to Europe, but also being proud of their ancient culture and long tradition in science and arts. Some youngsters were open about their secret parties while some older people recalled their time in Europe decades ago, drinking wine and working hard. 

The ancient city of Persepolis, a UNESCO world heritage site.

We happened to be in Iran during Now Ruz, the Iranian New Year, which meant that the majority of Iranians were on holidays  exactly the two weeks we were there. In Tehran, this meant that most of the restaurants were closed and the streets were empty of cars. It was good for the quality of air as Tehran is said to be one of the most polluted cities in the world, but at the same time, the city was a bit boring, not the metropole we had expected it to be. Elsewhere in the country, hotels and tourist sites were busy, but this didn't bother us as it created an even greater opportunity to meet a lot of local people. 

And yes, we did meet people. In fact, our holidays was a good introduction to what it probably feels like to be a Hollywood star. I called our vacation as "the Angelina Jolie experience" for all the photos that were taken of us, all the nice smiles, all the people interested in us in general, and all the people wanting to have a chat with us. I don't know how to live without this limelight again...

Because of the Iranian New Year holiday, all the places were full of Iranian tourists. We didn't mind!

However, to be honest, in the end, when we were already able to go through the basic questions in Farsi, we started to struggle with all the attention we had. Suddenly, the locals seemed almost maniac in their approach to us. However, this doesn't diminish the appreciation we have for the hospitality and friendliness we experienced. I was basically smiling all the time because of these wonderful encounters. 

It is also important to note that Iran is not an Arab country and it differs from the experiences people may have in many other countries of the region. Moreover, what is relieving for a tourist, is the fact that people don't expect anything in return for their friendliness or for helping you. Not once were we asked to pay for random people showing us a way to restaurants or giving us a tour in a mosque or some other site. This is a complete contrast to the experience I had in Egypt where everyone asks for a "baksheesh" even for the smallest thing like opening a door. This is probably connected to the higher living standards (and pride) in Iran, in general, we could only see a very few beggars in the streets (less than in Brussels, for sure).

The Azadi tower in Tehran.

The Iranian politeness can also be troubling sometimes. The system of "ta'arof" means that every situation is heavy with small talk and polite praises. It also means that when the Iranians invite you over for a dinner or to stay with them instead of a hotel, you need to say "no" at least two or three times before accepting if the offer is made again and again. Once we finally accepted a dinner offer and it was truly fantastic to enjoy a home-cooked meal with an Isfahan family. It is an experience that should definitely be tried on a trip to Iran. Sometimes it is good to just let go off the European way of calculating the "effort, pay-backs, and debts", and just say "yes".

Without a doubt, there is something we can learn from the Iranians; first of all, we could follow their example of warm hospitality and curiosity towards strangers. What can be better in fighting prejudices and intolerance, and striving for greater intercultural understanding and even peace. Only a cold-hearted person would like to have sanctions against the Iranians after meeting them in person. 

Woman in Masjed-e-Jameh mosque in Yazd.

Art Nouveau at Square Ambiorix

Even though there are no visible traces here so far, I've been following my "500 hidden secrets of Brussels" new year resolution really well. Let me present you a few examples that can actually be found on my way to work.

No. 228: Maison Saint-Cyr, one of the 5 most striking art nouveau houses in Brussels.

It needs to be said that the Instagram square format doesn't do justice to this amazing art nouveau piece at Square Ambiorix as it is very tall building but only 4 metres wide. It was designed by Gustave Strauven in 1900. The light green iron decorations are beautiful and I can actually remember the building already from my first visit to Brussels in 2001. 

Unfortunately, the gate is locked with a big padlock and it seems that the building has been empty for a quite a long time already - what a pity. (Check out the blue sky, evidence that it's not always raining here...)

Villa Germaine, one of the cutest brick facades (outside the official 500 list).

Villa Germaine, also at Square Ambiorix (or more correctly at Avenue Palmerston) is actually not on my Brussels 500 -list. But it is a pretty building close to Maison Saint-Cyr. Indeed, while Brussels is not often regarded as a very charming city (and personally, I'd agree that it is not), it has some amazing pieces of architecture scattered around if you just have the patience to look up and around - don't get that umbrella on the way. Often a gorgeous art nouveau facade is squeezed between some awful buildings or the facade is covered with a lot of dirt, but it is worthwhile to look up!

Villa Germaine, built in 1897, is actually of an eclectic style and not so much of an art nouveau building. But if you do an art nouveau tour at the square, don't miss this one either.

A bit further down from Villa Germaine is this beauty by Victor Horta.

No. 235: Hotel van Eetvelde, one of the best UNESCO world heritage sites in Brussels.

It actually took me a while to notice this building at Avenue Palmerston and only later I happened to find it on my 500 list and read that it is designed by the most famous art nouveau architecte Victor Horta in 1895. Van Eetvelde who commissioned the house and lived there, was a secretary general of Congo, bringing in mind where the money for the construction of the late 19th century Brussels was coming from... 

In this website, where you can find descriptions of Brussels' architectural patrimony (even my home is mentioned on the website!!), you can also see what kind of treasures this facade hides. Luckily there are some places in Brussels, where you can also enter the buildings and have a closer look at the art nouveau design. Musée Horta, Horta's own home, is a good example. 

There are three other Unesco sites by Horta in Brussels (including the museum). They are all listed in my "hidden secrets" - if you can call a Unesco world heritage site a hidden secret, but still. Brussels is a great city for art nouveau fans, at the turn of the 19th century, the city was the heart of  art nouveau style and Horta its foremost guru. Around a thousand art nouveau town houses were built that time, while today half of them exist. Plenty to do for Sunday strolls...

So, when in Brussels, keep your eyes open - but be careful of dog shit as well!